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AREA 1: DUNKERQUE, CASSEL & FRENCH FLANDERS
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HOTEL
Chatellerie De Shoebeque, Cassel
Great views and plushy
décor
This
newly-refurbished 4-star hotel in
the centre of Cassel (an attractive hilltop town equidistant from Calais,
Dunkerque and Ypres) was the billet of Marshal Foch during the early part of
World War I. Every room and
suite has been given a quirky style of its own: “La Vie en Rose” (in the
pink); “L’Aziza” (north-African style); “Les Comediens” (with pictures of
French movie stars), etc.
The breakfast room affords magnificent views over the Flanders plain.
Rooms from about 200 euros
Chatellerie de Shoebeque,
32 Rue Foch, 59670 Cassel
(tel : 03 28 42 42 67).
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Photograph
from hotel website
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B&B
Ons Kot, near Hondschoote
Near the Belgian border
A
warm English-speaking welcome
to Ons Kot, a Belgian-owned
B&B buried in the countryside near Hondschoote, 17km south-east of
Dunkerque. Delicious evening meals available on prior reservation. Room for
two from 50€; meal 20€.
Ons Kot, 1200 Chemin du Clachoire,
59122 Hondschoote (tel : 03 28 20 76 87).
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Photograph
from B&B website
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Photograph
from hotel website
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HOTEL
Au Tonnelier,
Bergues
In the walled town of Bergues
The
2-star Logis hotel Au
Tonnelier offers simple accommodation in the heart of this attractive old
market town near Dunkerque. Restaurant on the
spot; others within walking distance. Room for two from 48€; breakfast 10€
(2008).
Au Tonnelier, 2-4, Rue du Mont de Piété,
59380 Bergues (tel : 03 28 68 70 05).
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HOTEL
Hoastellerie St-Louis, Bollezeele
In the centre of a Flanders village
The
3-star Logis hotel, Hostellerie
St-Louis, and its restaurant, at Bollezeele is
popular with British visitors and conveniently placed equidistant from
Calais, Dunkerque and St-Omer.
Dogs accepted. Room for two from 55€
(2008); meals from 24€.
Hostellerie Saint Louis, 47
Rue de l'Eglise, 59470
Bollezeele
(tel: 03 28 68 81 83).
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Photograph
from hotel website
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Photograph
from B&B website
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B&B
Pantgat Hof, near Bollezeele
In rural Flanders
The
Chiloups have created lovely modern guest-rooms in their former farmhouse
known as the Pantgat Hof. Located
outside Bollezeele, it is in a peaceful setting not far from Calais and
Dunkerque. Evening meals on reservation. Room for two from 50€ (2008);
evening meal 21€.
Pantgat Hof, 27 bis Rue de Metz,
59470 Bollezeele (tel: 03 28 68 00 87)
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HOTEL
Auberge de la
Foret, La Motte aux Bois
Village centre, near Hazebrouck
The
2-star Logis hotel the
Auberge de la Forêt
lies on the crossroads in La Motte-au-Bois, just south of Hazebrouck and an
hour’s drive from Calais. Simply-furnished rooms; rather more sophisticated
restaurant and cooking. Room for two from 45€, breakfast 7.50€ (2008).
Auberge de la Forêt,
La Motte au Bois, 59190 Hazebrouck
(tel: 03 28 48 08 78).
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Photograph
from hotel website
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CAMPSITE
Le Val Joly, near Watten
Not far from ferries
A
2-star site by the river Aa with 109 pitches. No website, but it is
recommended by campers for its friendly welcome, good value and for its
proximity to the ferry ports of Calais and Dunkerque. Play area and fishing
on site.
Camping Le Val Joly, 1 Rue de l'Aa, 59143 Watten (tel: 03 21 88 23
26)
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AREA 2: CALAIS, BOULOGNE, ST-OMER & WORLD
WAR II
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HOTEL
Among the Audomarois marshes, near St-Omer
The
waterside, 2-star Hotel
du Romlaëre, near St-Omer, offers simple first-floor rooms in a tranquil
setting alongside a canal. Good local dishes in the hotel’s
restaurant. Room for two from 40€; menus from 16€ (2008). Animals accepted.
Hotel
du Romelaëre,
Chemin du Grand-St-Bernard,
62500 Clairmarais (tel :03 21 38 95 95).
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Photograph
from hotel website
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Photograph
from hotel website
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HOTEL
Peaceful 18thC country house near Ardres
The
Château de Cocove is surrounded
by parkland near Recques-sur-Hem,
about half an hour’s drive south-east of Calais. The 3-star hotel may not be
quite as grand as the name implies, but rooms
are reasonable and the restaurant is good. Rooms from 95€ for two (2008);
menus from 26€.
Château de Cocôve, Avenue de
Cocôve, 62890 Recques-sur-Hem
(tel: 03 21 02 68 29).
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HOTEL
Converted watermill, near Licques
The
Moulin d’Audenfort stands beside a
ford on a gurgling river. It’s popular with British visitors for its
attractive setting, warm welcome, simple rooms, and good food. Rooms from
52€, menus from 20€ (restaurant closed Mon).
16 Impasse du Gué, Audenfort, 10km S of Ardres (tel: 03 21 00 13 16)
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Photograph © A
Bird.
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Photograph
from gîte website
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SELF-CATERING
Marais d’Opale & St-Omer area
Two charming adjoining cottages (Planty
and La Chaumière) for rent near St-Omer golf course, Rando-Rail, La
Coupole and recommended wildlife walks.
Owners: M et Mme Lasset:
(tel: 03 21 39 97 50;
mobile: 06 78 01 78 82).
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B&B
In Boulogne’s old town
The
Enclos de l’Evêché is a lovely
old town house near the domed cathedral of Boulogne (open-air public parking
adjacent). It has five elegant bedrooms (from 70€ for two, 2008), and its own
restaurant (closed Sun
evg-Tues lunch inclusive), with menus from 19.50 euros (Wed-Sat lunchtimes,
except public holidays).
Enclos de l’Évêché, 6
Rue de Pressy, Boulogne sur Mer (tel: 03 91 90 05 90).
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Photograph
from B&B website
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Photograph from B&B website
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B&B
On seafront at Wimereux
Mary
Avot’s B&B in an elegant Edwardian-style villa, La Goélette, on the promenade at
Wimereux (between
Calais and Boulogne) is in a wonderful position, with great sea views
to enjoy from the breakfast room. Room for two from 90€.
La Goélette, 13 Digue de
mer,
62930 Wimereux (tél : 03 21 32
62 44)
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CAMPING
Near St-Omer, Calais
& WII relics
The
Château du Gandspette
is a 3-star campsite at Eperlecques, within 30 minutes’ drive of Calais. It
is very close to the awe-inspiring Blockhaus d’Eperlecques,
a
sombre remnant of WWII.
Château du Gandspette,
133 Rue du Gandspette,
62910 Éperlecques (tel: 03 21 93 43 93).
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Picture available on website only
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Photograph from campsite brochure
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CAMPING
Outside Guînes; handy
for Calais
The
Castel-Camping Bien-Assise
campsite, at Guînes (where Henry VIII met French king Francis I at the
Field of the Cloth of Gold) is a popular stop for visitors
travelling to and from England, as Calais is only 15 minutes’ drive.
Here is a review
from Alan Rogers’ website.
La
Bien Assise, on D 231 road,
62340 Guînes (tel: 03.21 35 20
77). .
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AREA 3: LE TOUQUET, MONTREUIL, HESDIN
& THE SEVEN VALLEYS
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B&B
Seven Valleys area
The Longhouse is near the centre
of Beaurainville, a village on the river Canche between Montreuil and Hesdin.
Undercover parking for motorcycles.
There is a selection of restaurants a short drive away, in neighbouring
villages. Rooms from 50€ (2008).
The Long House
59 Rue du Petit Beaurain,
62990 Beaurainville
(tel : 03 21 86 36 93).
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Photograph from B&B website
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Photograph from gite website
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SELF-CATERING
GITE
Near Desvres and Le Touquet
Les
Marronniers sleeps five in a 2-bedroomed cottage (all ground-floor
accommodation). Located on the edge of the village of Courset, it is ideal
for exploring the Seven Valleys, the Opal Coast and many other attractions.
Open all year. South-facing garden for warm days; open fireplace for log fires
in winter.
Take own linen.
Hilary and Jean-Pierre Darque, Contact via website.
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SELF-CATERING GITES
Seven Valleys area
The Abbaye de
St-André offers three adjoining gites,
or holiday cottages, in a corner of a vast, enclosed farmyard of a former
abbey, between Montreuil and Hesdin. Each has a small private garden,
plus a large grassy communal space in front.
Vitse family, Hameau
de St André,
62870 Gouy-Saint-André
(tel: 03 21 90 32 97).
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Photograph ©
A. Bird
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Photograph ©
A. Bird
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HOTEL
Centre of historic
Montreuil
The
Château de Montreuil is a
Relais et Châteaux establishment offering 4-star comfort, a peaceful garden
and a Michelin-starred restaurant in the centre of this attractive fortified
town. Rooms from 200€; menus 38€-90€.
4 Chaussée des Capucins, 62170 Montreuil (tel: 03 21 81 53 04).
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HOTEL
In centre of historic Montreuil
A
3-star hotel in the centre of Montreuil, the Hotel Hermitage is
resolutely modern. Backing onto the Wine Society’s France shop, it is built
within the shell of an ancient brick monastery. Lifts to all floors;
restaurants within easy walking distance. Rooms from about 90€ in the week;
more expensive at weekends.
Hotel Hermitage, Place Gambetta, 62170 Montreuil (tél : 03 21 06 74 74).
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Photograph
from hotel website
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Photograph
from B&B website
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B&B
In centre of historic Montreuil
An
elegant 3-épi bed-and-breakfast,
La Rodiere is an 18th-century town
house, on a town-centre square. Rooms on second floor. Double room 60 euros.
Restaurants within walking distance.
La Rodiere, 77 Rue Pierre-Ledent, 62170 Montreuil
(tel : 03 21 81 54 68).
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B&B
In the valley of the
river Canche
The Moulin de
Fillièvres is a comfortable B&B in an old watermill located
at Fillièvres, between Hesdin & St-Pol-sur-Ternoise, in an area known for
its
many delightful gardens. Convivial evening meals around a large table with
your hosts, the Legrands, on prior reservation. Courtyard parking.
Rooms from 50€ (2008); dinner 21€.
Le Moulin de Fillièvres, 16
Rue de St Pol, 62770 Fillièvres
(tel : 03 21 41 13 20).
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Photograph
from B&B website
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Photograph
from Maison de Plumes website
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B&B
Near Agincourt and
Arras
The Maison de Plumes is
a boutique hotel in in a romantic-looking 18th-century country house, handy
for visiting Vimy and Arras in one direction; Agincourt and Montreuil in the
other. Check out the website for the sumptuous decor; rooms are all called
after exotic birds. Lunches and evening meals available on prior reservation.
Rooms from 89€; dinner 35€. (2010)
Maison de Plumes, 73 Rue d’Aire, 62134 Heuchin, near Anvin
(tel: 03 21 41 47 85).
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Photograph
from hotel website
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HOTEL
Near the seafront at Berck
Excellent
dining in the 2-star Logis hotel L’Impératrice,
set in a side street a stone’s throw from the sea at the rather
Blackpool-like resort of Berck-sur-Mer, south of Le Touquet. Garage parking
available.
Hôtel-Restaurant de
l'Impératrice, 43 Rue de la Division Leclerc/2 Rue de Rothschild, 62600
Berck-sur-Mer (tel :03 21 09 01 09).
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AREA 4: AMIENS, CRÉCY AND THE WILDLIFE
OF THE SOMME BAY
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Photograph from hotel website
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HOTEL
On the Somme estuary
Its exotic brick
pinnacles make it easy to find the attractive waterfront hotel Les Tourelles in the
small seaside resort of Le Crotoy. Stylish décor in rooms, bar and
restaurant, though not all rooms are en-suite. Doubles from 65€ (2008),
breakfast 10€; menus from 23€. Dogs accepted.
Les Tourelles, 2-4 Rue
Pierre-Guerlain, 80550 Le Crotoy (tel : 03 22 27 16 33).
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HOTEL
In Amiens city centre
The modern Ibis
Amiens Centre Cathédrale hotel is a good choice for those touring the
Somme battlefields, but who may have companions less keen on war. It’s a
short stroll to shops, museums, restaurants and the world-famous
cathedral. The hotel offers
underground car parking and a fairly basic restaurant; lots of good
restaurants within walking distance.
The breakfasts (2008) have taken a turn for the better, and are really
good now, with top-quality jams etc (8€). Room for two around 61€ (2008); rates
are slightly lower at weekends.
Ibis Amiens Centre
Cathédrale 4 Rue du Maréchal de
Lattre
80000 Amiens (tel: 03 22 92 57 33).
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Photograph ©
A. Bird
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Photograph
from B&B website
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B&B
Quiet village location
Near
the tourist attraction of Samara, this old presbytery offers B&B in
ground-floor rooms and – on prior reservation – evening meals as
well. Les Prés du Mesnil is in La Chaussée-Tirancourt, 13km north-west of
Amiens. Room for two 50€
(2008) ; meal 22€.
(From Gîtes de France list, click on Gite No G20201 for full details)
Les Prés du Mesnil, 1 Rue à
l'Avoine,
80310 La Chaussée-Tirancourt
(tel : 06 81 96 37 59).
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HOTEL
In a picturesque Picardy village
The
Jean de Bruges
hotel is in a beautifully restored 17th-century building
alongside the magnificent abbey church of St-Riquier, a few km north-east
of Abbeville. You can also drop in for
tea in the hotel’s elegant conservatory.
Hôtel Jean de Bruges
18 Place del’Église, 80135 St-Riquier (tel : 03 22 28 30 30).
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Photograph
from hotel website
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AREA 5: ARRAS, ALBERT & THE SOMME
BATTLEFIELDS
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B&B
In the centre of Arras
A beautiful town house, La
Maison d’Hôtes La Corne d’Or has a lovely interior, with rooms decorated
in either classic or modern style. Rooms from 77€, breakfast 7€. Franck et
Isabelle Smal also offer evening meals, on prior reservation. (See review
below.)
La Corne
d’Or, 1, Place Guy Mollet,
62000 Arras (tel: 03 21 58 85
94;
mobile 06 09 40 72 49).
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Photograph
from Corne d’Or website
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JOHN BROMHALL WRITES:
It's easy to drive past La
Corne d'Or, above, because it does not appear as imposing as
one might expect of such a fine establishment. Look out for the public car
park opposite (there is also some private parking at the rear).
This stylish maison d'hote is ideally situated in the centre of Arras, a few steps
away from the Grand’ Place. The building was once the guest wing of a wealthy
merchant's house, and has been restored by the present owners, Franck and
Isabelle Smal.
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The interior is an eclectic mix of traditional and modern decor and
furnishing, with paintings and photographs on display throughout the house.
We stayed in the Regina Suite consisting of a large bedroom with TV,
sitting-room with sound system and some CDs, a large bathroom and a separate
wc.
We ate dinner out at one
of Arras' fine restaurants, although, with sufficient notice, the Smals will
cook for guests.
Our breakfast was a
wonderful surprise, with freshly prepared fruit juice and fruit salad, an
interesting selection of bread from the local bakers, and
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home-made confitures. In addition, one day we had superbly cured bacon, and
the next, pain perdu (we think this came in at just under a million calories,
and negated the need for lunch - despite spending most of the day walking
around Vimy Ridge and talking to some of the Canadian visitors).
Franck also showed us his
cellars, on three levels below the house, whose history he is keen to
unravel.
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Photograph ©
A. Bird
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B&B
Village centre, near Arras
You
feel very welcome at La
Solette B&B at Hauteville, a few km west of Arras. No evening meal
here, but there are facilities for heating your own food, and you can look
forward to Madame Debaisieux’s freshly-baked breakfast treats. One room is on
the ground-floor. Double room from 50€ (2008).
La Solette, 10 Rue du Moulin,
62810 Hauteville (tel: 03 21 58 73 58).
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CAMPING
La Paille Haute, near Arras
2-star
campsite in the countryside to the east of Arras, near the Artois
battlefields. La Paille Haute
is open April to October, for stays of two nights minimum duration.
Camping La Paille Haute, 145 Rue
de Sailly, 62156 Boiry-Notre-Dame, near Monchy-le-Preux (tel: 03 21 48 15 40)
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Photograph
from campsite website
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Photograph
from Macassar website
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B&B
Step back into the 1920s at Corbie
Le
Macassar is a house on the main square of Corbie, 15km east of Amiens.
It has recently been transformed by Ian and Miguel into an elegant boutique
hotel, in a wonderful blend of Art Deco and Art Nouveau style. Rooms 160€ to
240€, including breakfast, and evening drinks.
Le Macassar, 8 Place de la
République, 80800 Corbie (tel: 03 22 48 40 04).
Feb 2008:
Trip Advisor ranked Le Macassar as one of the
Top 10 Inns and B&B's in Europe,
in its 2008 “Travelers’ Choice” awards - one of only two establishments in
France to receive it for that year.
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Photograph
from gîte website
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SELF-CATERING
GITES
Somme battlefields area
British-owned
self-catering accommodation in
three separate gîtes. Chavasse Farm,
at Hardecourt-aux-Bois, is located 13km east of Albert. The owners’
collections of relics from WWI make it hugely popular with battlefield visitors.
Chavasse Farm (tel (UK): 07855
850 889); email chavasseferme@aol.com
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B&B AND SELF-CATERING
Somme battlefields area
Avril
Williams’ “Ocean Villas”
tea-room, B&B and self-catering cottages, just north of Albert, have
become an institution. Standing almost on the front line of the battle of 1
July 1916, this idiosyncratic place is beloved of battlefield visitors, and
packed with military memorabilia. Evening meals available on prior
reservation.
Avril Williams' Guesthouse,
10 Rue Delattre,
80560 Auchonvillers (tel: 03 22 76 23 66).
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Photograph from
B&B website
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Photograph
from campsite’s website
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CAMPSITE
Somme battlefields area
The
Camping du Port de Plaisance,
on the outskirts of Péronne, has attracted much praise from users. It’s a
20-minute stroll to the town centre (shops, restaurants and the wonderful WW1
museum the Historial de la Grande Guerre).
Here is a review
from Alan Rogers’ website.
Camping du Port de Plaisance,
Route de Paris, 80200 Péronne
(tel : 03 22 84 19 31).
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CAMPSITE
Somme battlefields area
The
well-run Camping Bellevue, in the
village of Authuille, gets the thumbs-up from battlefield visitors, who like
the fact that you can walk the area direct
from the site. Good restaurants within walking distance.
Camping
Bellevue, 27 Rue Albert,
80300 Authuille (tel: 03 22 74 59 29).
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AREA 6: LENS, BÉTHUNE, BATTLES OF THE
ARTOIS, & THE MINING BASIN
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Photograph © Gilbert Ducrocq
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B&B
Quiet village location
Gina
Bulot’s friendly B&B, Les
Cohettes at Auchy-au-Bois, is 6km west of Lillers and 20km north-west of
Béthune is a firm favourite with British visitors. Convivial evening meals
may be booked in advance. Room for two from 50€ (2008); dinner 22€.
Les
Cohettes, 28 Rue de Pernes,
62190 Auchy-au-Bois (tel: 03 21 02 09 47).
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HOTEL
Gracious living in a château
Marc
Meurin’s grand country-house hotel outside Lillers, the Château de
Beaulieu, enjoys a peaceful setting and is especially renowned for its
Michelin-starred restaurant. Rooms 150€ to 420€ (2008); meals around
100€. Le
Château de Beaulieu, Rue de Lillers, 62350 Busnes (tel : 03 21 68 88 88).
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Photograph from hotel website
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Photograph © Gilbert Ducrocq
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B&B
Comfortable
rooms around farmyard
The five ground-floor chambres
d’hote here are set around
a farmyard on the main street, opposite the village church. Evening meals
make good use of the farm’s produce (leeks, potatoes, cauliflower and
carrots); breakfast includes Madame Caboche’s delicious home-made jams. Rooms
38€; meals (with drinks) 16€ (2008). 34 Rue Principale, 62190 Ecquedecques, nr Lillers (tel : 03 21
02 33 19).
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HOTEL
Stylish rooms in countryside
The
Cour de Rémi, 10km north-west of
St-Pol-sur-Ternoise and fairly handy for Agincourt, has very cool décor for
its converted outbuildings, and an interesting menu in the dining-room. Chic
rooms from 80€ (2008); menus from 29€.
Jan 2008: Chef Stéphane de La Borde has been nominated a
“jeune talent”, or promising newcomer, in this year’s prestigious GaultMillau
guide.
La
Cour de Rémi, 1 Rue Baillet,
62130
Bermicourt (tel: 03 21 03 33 33).
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Photograph from hotel website
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