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AREA
1: DUNKERQUE, CASSEL & FRENCH FLANDERS
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HOTEL
Great views and plushy décor
This newly-refurbished 4-star hotel in the centre of Cassel (an
attractive hilltop town equidistant from Calais, Dunkerque and Ypres) was the
billet of Marshal Foch during the early part of World War I. Every room and suite has been given a
quirky style of its own: “La Vie en Rose” (in the pink); “L’Aziza”
(north-African style); “Les Comediens” (with pictures of French movie stars),
etc.
The breakfast room affords magnificent views over the Flanders plain.
Rooms from about 200 euros
Chatellerie de Shoebeque,
32 Rue Foch, 59670 Cassel
(tel : 03 28 42 42 67).
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Photograph
from hotel website
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B&B
Near the Belgian border
A warm English-speaking
welcome
to Ons Kot, a Belgian-owned B&B buried in the countryside
near Hondschoote, 17km south-east of Dunkerque. Delicious evening
meals available on prior reservation. Room for two from 50€; meal 20€.
Ons Kot, 1200 Chemin du Clachoire,
59122 Hondschoote (tel : 03 28 20 76 87).
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Photograph
from B&B website
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Photograph
from hotel website
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HOTEL
In the walled town of Bergues
The 2-star Logis hotel Au Tonnelier offers simple
accommodation in the heart
of this attractive old market town near Dunkerque. Restaurant on the
spot; others within walking distance. Room for two from 48€; breakfast 10€
(2008).
Au Tonnelier,
2-4, Rue du Mont de Piété,
59380 Bergues (tel : 03 28 68 70 05).
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HOTEL
In the centre of a Flanders village
The 3-star Logis hotel, Hostellerie St-Louis, and its restaurant, at Bollezeele is
popular with British visitors and conveniently placed equidistant from
Calais, Dunkerque and St-Omer.
Dogs
accepted. Room for two from 55€ (2008); meals from 24€.
Hostellerie
Saint Louis, 47 Rue de l'Eglise, 59470
Bollezeele
(tel: 03 28 68 81 83).
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Photograph
from hotel website
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Photograph
from B&B website
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B&B
In rural Flanders
The Chiloups have created
lovely modern guest-rooms in their former farmhouse known as the Pantgat
Hof. Located outside Bollezeele, it is in a peaceful setting not far
from Calais and Dunkerque. Evening meals on reservation. Room for two from
50€ (2008); evening meal 21€.
Pantgat Hof, 27 bis Rue de Metz,
59470 Bollezeele (tel: 03
28 68 00 87)
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HOTEL
Village centre, near Hazebrouck
The 2-star Logis hotel the
Auberge de la Forêt lies on the
crossroads in La Motte-au-Bois, just south of Hazebrouck and an hour’s drive
from Calais. Simply-furnished rooms; rather more sophisticated restaurant and
cooking. Room for two from 45€, breakfast 7.50€ (2008).
Auberge de
la Forêt,
La Motte au Bois, 59190 Hazebrouck
(tel: 03 28 48 08 78).
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Photograph
from hotel website
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CAMPSITE
Watten, not far from ferries
A 2-star site by the river
Aa with 109 pitches. No website, but it is recommended by campers for its
friendly welcome, good value and for its proximity to the ferry ports of
Calais and Dunkerque. Play area and fishing on site.
Camping Le
Val Joly, 1 Rue de l'Aa, 59143 Watten (tel: 03 21 88 23 26)
.
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AREA
2: CALAIS, BOULOGNE, ST-OMER &
WORLD WAR II
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HOTEL
Among the Audomarois marshes, near St-Omer
The waterside, 2-star Hotel du Romlaëre, near St-Omer, offers simple first-floor
rooms in a tranquil setting alongside a canal. Good local dishes in the hotel’s restaurant. Room for two from 40€; menus from 16€
(2008). Animals accepted.
Hotel du Romelaëre,
Chemin du Grand-St-Bernard,
62500 Clairmarais (tel :03 21 38 95 95).
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Photograph
from hotel website
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Photograph
from hotel website
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HOTEL
Peaceful 18thC country house near Ardres
The Château
de Cocove is surrounded by parkland near Recques-sur-Hem,
about half an hour’s drive south-east of Calais. The 3-star hotel may not be
quite as grand as the name implies, but rooms
are reasonable and the restaurant is good. Rooms from 95€ for two (2008);
menus from 26€.
Château de Cocôve, Avenue de Cocôve, 62890 Recques-sur-Hem
(tel: 03 21 02 68 29).
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HOTEL
Converted watermill, near Licques
The Moulin
d’Audenfort stands beside a ford on a gurgling river. It’s popular with
British visitors for its attractive setting, warm welcome, simple rooms, and
good food. Rooms from 52€, menus from 20€ (restaurant closed Mon).
16 Impasse du Gué, Audenfort, 10km S of Ardres (tel: 03 21 00 13 16)
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Photograph
© A Bird.
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Photograph
from gîte website
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SELF-CATERING
Marais d’Opale & St-Omer area
Two charming adjoining cottages (Planty
and La Chaumière) for rent near St-Omer golf course, Rando-Rail, La
Coupole and recommended wildlife walks.
Owners: M et Mme Lasset:
(tel: 03 21 39 97 50;
mobile: 06 78 01 78 82).
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B&B
In Boulogne’s old town
The Enclos
de l’Evêché is a lovely old town house near the domed cathedral of
Boulogne (open-air public parking adjacent). It has five elegant bedrooms
(from 70€ for two, 2008), and its own restaurant (closed Sun evg-Tues lunch inclusive), with
menus from 19.50 euros (Wed-Sat lunchtimes, except public holidays).
Enclos de l’Évêché, 6 Rue de Pressy, Boulogne sur Mer (tel: 03 91 90 05 90).
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Photograph
from B&B website
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Photograph from B&B website
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B&B
On seafront at Wimereux
Mary Avot’s B&B in an
elegant Edwardian-style villa, La Goélette, on the promenade at
Wimereux (between
Calais and Boulogne) is in a wonderful position, with great sea views
to enjoy from the breakfast room. Room for two from 90€.
La Goélette,
13 Digue de mer,
62930 Wimereux (tél : 03 21 32 62 44)
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CAMPING
Near St-Omer, Calais & WII
relics
The Château du
Gandspette is a 3-star campsite at Eperlecques, within 30 minutes’ drive
of Calais. It is very close to the awe-inspiring Blockhaus d’Eperlecques,
a sombre remnant of WWII.
Château du
Gandspette,
133 Rue du Gandspette,
62910 Éperlecques (tel: 03 21 93 43 93).
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Picture available on website only
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CAMPING
Outside Guînes; handy for Calais
The Castel-Camping Bien-Assise campsite, at Guînes (where Henry VIII met
French king Francis I at the Field of the Cloth of Gold) is a popular stop
for visitors
travelling to and from England, as Calais is only 15 minutes’ drive.
Here is a review from Alan Rogers’ website.
La Bien Assise, on D 231 road,
62340 Guînes (tel: 03.21 35 20 77). .
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Photograph from campsite brochure
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AREA
3: LE TOUQUET, MONTREUIL, HESDIN
& THE SEVEN VALLEYS
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B&B
Seven Valleys area
The Longhouse is near the centre of Beaurainville, a village
on the river Canche between Montreuil and Hesdin. Undercover parking for
motorcycles.
There is a selection of restaurants a short drive away, in neighbouring
villages. Rooms from 50€ (2008).
The Long House
59 Rue du Petit Beaurain,
62990 Beaurainville
(tel : 03 21 86 36 93).
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Photograph from B&B website
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Photograph from gite website
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SELF-CATERING
GITE
Near Desvres and Le Touquet
Les
Marronniers sleeps five in a 2-bedroomed cottage (all ground-floor
accommodation). Located on the edge of the village of Courset, it is ideal
for exploring the Seven Valleys, the Opal Coast and many other attractions.
Open all year. South-facing garden for warm days; open fireplace for log
fires in winter.
Take own linen.
Hilary and Jean-Pierre Darque, Contact
via website.
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SELF-CATERING GITES
Seven Valleys area
The Abbaye de St-André offers three
adjoining gites, or holiday cottages, in a corner of a vast, enclosed
farmyard of a former abbey, between Montreuil and Hesdin. Each has a small
private garden,
plus a large grassy communal space in front.
Vitse family, Hameau de St André,
62870 Gouy-Saint-André
(tel: 03 21 90 32 97).
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Photograph
© A. Bird
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Photograph
© A. Bird
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HOTEL
Centre of historic Montreuil
The Château de
Montreuil is a Relais et Châteaux establishment offering 4-star comfort,
a peaceful garden and a Michelin-starred restaurant in the centre of this
attractive fortified town. Rooms from 200€; menus 38€-90€.
4 Chaussée des Capucins, 62170 Montreuil (tel: 03 21 81 53 04).
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HOTEL
In centre of historic Montreuil
A 3-star hotel in the centre
of Montreuil, the Hotel Hermitage is resolutely
modern. Backing onto the Wine Society’s France shop, it is built within the
shell of an ancient brick monastery. Lifts to all floors; restaurants within
easy walking distance. Rooms from about 90€ in the week; more expensive at
weekends.
Hotel Hermitage, Place Gambetta, 62170 Montreuil (tél : 03 21 06 74 74).
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Photograph
from hotel website
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Photograph
from B&B website
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B&B
In centre of historic Montreuil
An elegant 3-épi bed-and-breakfast,
La Rodiere is an 18th-century town house,
on a town-centre square. Rooms on second floor. Double room 60 euros.
Restaurants within walking distance.
La Rodiere, 77 Rue Pierre-Ledent,
62170 Montreuil (tel : 03 21 81 54
68).
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B&B
In the valley of the river
Canche
The Moulin de Fillièvres is a
comfortable B&B in an old watermill located
at Fillièvres, between Hesdin & St-Pol-sur-Ternoise, in an area known for
its
many delightful gardens. Convivial evening meals around a large table with
your hosts, the Legrands, on prior reservation. Courtyard parking.
Rooms from 50€ (2008); dinner 21€.
Le Moulin de Fillièvres,
16 Rue de St Pol, 62770 Fillièvres
(tel : 03 21 41 13 20).
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Photograph
from B&B website
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Photograph
from hotel website
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HOTEL
Near the seafront at Berck
Excellent dining in the 2-star
Logis hotel L’Impératrice, set in a side street a stone’s throw from the
sea at the rather Blackpool-like resort of Berck-sur-Mer, south of Le
Touquet. Garage parking available.
Hôtel-Restaurant de
l'Impératrice,
43 Rue de la Division Leclerc/2 Rue de Rothschild, 62600 Berck-sur-Mer
(tel :03 21 09 01 09).
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AREA
4: AMIENS, CRÉCY AND THE WILDLIFE OF
THE SOMME BAY
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Photograph from hotel website
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HOTEL
On
the Somme estuary
Its exotic brick pinnacles make it easy to find the attractive
waterfront hotel Les Tourelles in the small
seaside resort of Le Crotoy. Stylish décor in rooms, bar and restaurant, though not all rooms
are en-suite. Doubles from 65€ (2008), breakfast 10€; menus from 23€. Dogs
accepted.
Les Tourelles, 2-4 Rue
Pierre-Guerlain, 80550 Le Crotoy (tel : 03 22 27 16 33).
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HOTEL
In Amiens city centre
The
modern Ibis Amiens Centre Cathédrale
hotel is a good choice for those touring the Somme battlefields, but who may
have companions less keen on war. It’s a short stroll to shops, museums,
restaurants and the world-famous cathedral.
The hotel offers underground car parking and a fairly basic
restaurant; lots of good restaurants within walking distance. The breakfasts (2008) have taken a turn for
the better, and are really
good now, with top-quality jams etc (8€). Room for two around 61€ (2008);
rates are slightly lower at weekends.
Ibis Amiens
Centre Cathédrale,
4 Rue du Maréchal de Lattre
80000 Amiens (tel: 03 22 92 57 33).
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Photograph © A. Bird
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Photograph
from B&B website
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B&B
Quiet village location
Near the tourist
attraction of Samara, this old presbytery offers B&B in ground-floor
rooms and – on prior reservation – evening meals as well. Les Prés du
Mesnil is in La Chaussée-Tirancourt, 13km north-west of
Amiens. Room for two 50€ (2008) ;
meal 22€.
(From Gîtes de France list, click on Gite No G20201 for full details)
Les Prés du
Mesnil, 1 Rue à l'Avoine,
80310 La Chaussée-Tirancourt
(tel : 06 81 96 37 59).
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HOTEL
In a picturesque Picardy village
The Jean de Bruges hotel is in a beautifully restored
17th-century building
alongside the magnificent abbey church of St-Riquier, a few km north-east
of Abbeville. You can also drop in for
tea in the hotel’s elegant conservatory.
Hôtel Jean de Bruges
18 Place del’Église, 80135 St-Riquier (tel : 03 22 28 30 30).
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Photograph from hotel website
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AREA
5: ARRAS, ALBERT & THE SOMME
BATTLEFIELDS
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B&B
In the centre of Arras
A beautiful town house, La
Maison d’Hôtes La Corne d’Or has a lovely interior, with rooms decorated
in either classic or modern style. Rooms from 77€, breakfast 7€. Franck et
Isabelle Smal also offer evening meals, on prior reservation. (See review
below.)
La Corne d’Or, 1, Place Guy Mollet,
62000 Arras (tel: 03 21 58 85 94;
mobile 06 09 40 72 49).
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Photograph from B&B website
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JOHN BROMHALL
WRITES:
It's
easy to drive past La Corne d'Or, above, because it does
not appear as imposing as one might expect of such a fine establishment. Look
out for the public car park opposite (there is also some private parking at
the rear).
This stylish maison d'hote is ideally situated in the centre of Arras,
a few steps away from the Grand’ Place. The building was once the guest wing
of a wealthy merchant's house, and has been restored by the present owners,
Franck and Isabelle Smal.
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The interior is an eclectic mix of traditional and modern decor and
furnishing, with paintings and photographs on display throughout the house.
We stayed in the Regina Suite consisting of a large bedroom with TV,
sitting-room with sound system and some CDs, a large bathroom and a separate
wc.
We ate dinner out at one of Arras'
fine restaurants, although, with sufficient notice, the Smals will cook for
guests.
Our breakfast was a wonderful
surprise, with freshly prepared fruit juice and fruit salad, an interesting
selection of bread from the local bakers, and
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home-made confitures. In addition, one day we had superbly cured
bacon, and the next, pain perdu (we think this came in at just under a
million calories, and negated the need for lunch - despite spending most of
the day walking around Vimy Ridge and talking to some of the Canadian
visitors).
Franck also showed us his cellars,
on three levels below the house, whose history he is keen to unravel.
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Photograph
© A. Bird
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B&B
Village centre, near Arras
You feel very welcome at La Solette B&B at Hauteville, a few km west of Arras.
No evening meal here, but there are facilities for heating your own food, and
you can look forward to Madame Debaisieux’s freshly-baked breakfast treats.
One room is on the ground-floor. Double room from 50€ (2008).
La Solette, 10 Rue du Moulin,
62810 Hauteville (tel: 03 21 58 73 58).
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CAMPING
La Paille Haute, near Arras
2-star campsite in the countryside to the east of Arras, near the
Artois battlefields. La Paille
Haute is open April to October, for stays of two nights minimum duration.
Camping La Paille Haute, 145 Rue
de Sailly, 62156 Boiry-Notre-Dame, near Monchy-le-Preux (tel: 03 21 48 15 40)
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Photograph from campsite website
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Photograph
from B&B website
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B&B
Step back into the 1920s at Corbie
Le
Macassar is a house on the main square of Corbie, 15km east of Amiens.
It has recently been transformed by Ian and Miguel into an elegant boutique
hotel, in a wonderful blend of Art Deco and Art Nouveau style. Rooms 160€ to
240€, including breakfast, and evening drinks.
Le Macassar, 8 Place de la République, 80800 Corbie (tel: 03 22 48 40 04).
Feb 2008: Trip Advisor ranked
Le Macassar as one
of the Top 10 Inns and B&B's in Europe, in its 2008 “Travelers’ Choice”
awards. It is one of only two establishments in France to receive the award
for that year.
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Photograph
from gîte website
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SELF-CATERING
GITES
Somme battlefields area
British-owned self-catering
accommodation in three separate gîtes. Chavasse
Farm, at Hardecourt-aux-Bois, is located 13km east of Albert. The
owners’ collections of relics from WWI make it hugely popular with battlefield visitors.
Chavasse
Farm (tel (UK): 07855 850 889); email
chavasseferme@aol.com
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B&B AND SELF-CATERING
Somme battlefields area
Avril Williams’ “Ocean Villas” tea-room, B&B and self-catering
cottages, just north of Albert, have become an institution. Standing almost
on the front line of the battle of 1 July 1916, this idiosyncratic place is
beloved of battlefield visitors, and packed with military memorabilia.
Evening meals available on prior reservation.
Avril Williams' Guesthouse,
10 Rue Delattre,
80560 Auchonvillers (tel: 03 22 76 23 66).
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Photograph
from B&B website
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Photograph
from campsite’s website
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CAMPSITE
Somme battlefields area
The Camping du Port de Plaisance, on the outskirts of Péronne,
has attracted much praise from users. It’s a 20-minute stroll to the town
centre (shops, restaurants and the wonderful WW1 museum the Historial de la
Grande Guerre).
Here is a review from Alan Rogers’
website.
Camping du Port de
Plaisance,
Route de Paris, 80200 Péronne
(tel : 03 22 84 19 31).
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CAMPSITE
Somme battlefields area
The well-run Camping Bellevue, in the village of Authuille,
gets the thumbs-up from battlefield visitors, who like the fact that you can
walk the area direct
from the site. Good restaurants within walking distance.
Camping Bellevue, 27 Rue Albert,
80300 Authuille (tel: 03 22 74 59 29).
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AREA
6: LENS, BÉTHUNE, BATTLES OF THE
ARTOIS, & THE MINING BASIN
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Photograph © Gilbert Ducrocq
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B&B
Quiet village location
Gina Bulot’s friendly
B&B, Les Cohettes at Auchy-au-Bois,
is 6km west of Lillers and 20km north-west of Béthune is a firm favourite
with British visitors. Convivial evening meals may be booked in advance. Room
for two from 50€ (2008); dinner 22€.
Les Cohettes, 28 Rue de Pernes,
62190 Auchy-au-Bois (tel: 03 21 02 09 47).
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HOTEL
Gracious living in a château
Marc Meurin’s grand
country-house hotel outside Lillers, the Château de Beaulieu, enjoys a peaceful
setting and is especially renowned for its Michelin-starred restaurant. Rooms
150€ to 420€ (2008); meals around 100€.
Le Château de Beaulieu, Rue de Lillers, 62350 Busnes
(tel : 03 21 68 88 88).
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Photograph from hotel website
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Photograph © Gilbert Ducrocq
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B&B
Comfortable
rooms around farmyard
The five ground-floor chambres d’hote here are set around a farmyard
on the main street, opposite the village church. Evening meals make good use
of the farm’s produce (leeks, potatoes, cauliflower and carrots); breakfast
includes Madame Caboche’s delicious home-made jams. Rooms 38€; meals (with
drinks) 16€ (2008). 34 Rue Principale, 62190 Ecquedecques, nr Lillers
(tel : 03 21 02 33 19).
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HOTEL
Stylish rooms in countryside
The Cour
de Rémi, 10km north-west of St-Pol-sur-Ternoise and fairly handy
for Agincourt, has very cool décor for its converted outbuildings, and an
interesting menu in the dining-room. Chic rooms from 80€ (2008); menus from
29€.
Jan 2008: Chef
Stéphane de La Borde has been nominated a “jeune talent”, or promising
newcomer, in this year’s prestigious GaultMillau guide.
La Cour de Rémi, 1 Rue Baillet,
62130 Bermicourt
(tel: 03 21 03 33 33).
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Photograph from hotel website
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